The Women behind the Wheel: Micreras of Valparaíso

The Chilean seaport of Valparaíso is known for its brightly painted houses, narrow-winding-streets, steep hills and their emblematic funiculars. Less notorious, but integral to the city’s identity are its micros, the small colorful buses that navigate the streets of Valparaíso. The speed at which they go by, the unique personality of each bus decorated by its driver, the loud music or soccer game playing on the radio: all are incredible insights into the inner workings of a vibrant city and its orderly chaos.

In the nearly three thousand bus drivers in the city, only a handful of women have chosen this profession, going against social expectations and countering machismo attitudes with humor and fierce independence. Danae, Barbara, Paola, Carla, Julia, Brunilda and Roxanna: all share a love of driving and view these hurdles as a small price to pay to carry on with their profession. Danae had started her career as a driver in colectivos, and eventually went back to working in these shared taxis. Julia had first driven school buses before becoming a micrera, a profession she can’t consider retiring from, despite the toll it occasionally takes on her health. Carla and Roxanna are driving their micros part-time, with Carla also working as an ambulance driver at night, and Roxanna taking trucks all the way up north to the mines of the Chilean desert.

Most of them had never met. They have different schedules, routes, days-off. Some had only heard of other micreras, others had briefly crossed paths driving in the city, honking at each other in acknowledgment. Over time, this group of women started coming together outside of their shifts, eager to share experiences and advice, around coffee or late dinners, glad to celebrate birthdays, new contracts and other milestones in each other’s company and shared understanding.